Rose Rosette Disease

Rose rosette disease is an untreatable rose disease caused by the Rose rosette virus (RRV), and is spread and introduced into the rose during feeding by the rose leaf curl mite (Phyllocoptes fructiplilus). This extremely small eriophyid mite feeds on cell sap of the tender stems and leaf petioles. The rose leaf curl mite alone causes little damage while feeding, but if it is a carrier of RRV, symptoms begin to appear in the rose typically within one to three months.

Roses exhibit reddened terminal growth on infected branches, and the stems become thicker and more succulent than those on unaffected parts of the plant. These stems exhibit an abnormally high number of pliable thorns, which may be either green or red. Rose leaves that develop on infected branches are smaller than normal and may be deformed similarly to herbicide injury by 2,4-D. Lateral branches may grow excessively from main stems and create a witch’s broom symptom quite like glyphosate (Roundup™) injury on roses. Flowering is reduced, and the petals may be distorted and fewer in number.

Rose with Rose Rosette Disease showing symptoms of  reddened new growth, thicker stem, excessive thorns, and smaller leaves.
Meg Williamson, Plant Problem Clinic, Clemson University

These symptoms generally become evident in the late spring to early summer and progress during the growing season. Once the rose becomes infected, RRV moves throughout the plant and the entire plant is infectious. By the time symptoms are evident in a rose, it already may have spread to adjacent plants by the movement of the eriophyid mites. Infected plants typically die within a couple of years.

Prevention & Treatment: The wild multiflora rose is very susceptible to the rose rosette disease, so any nearby wild plants should be removed and promptly disposed. Any infected, cultivated roses should be immediately removed, then burned or bagged. Also remove any roots, which might re-sprout later. Do not leave an uprooted infected plant in the garden, as the mites may leave this rose for other nearby plants. Always space rose plants so they do not touch.

Because RRV is systemic within the infected rose plants, grafting asymptomatic stems onto other rose plants will transmit the virus. Pruners used on diseased plants must be disinfested with rubbing alcohol or a dilute bleach solution before being used on uninfected plants, as sap on the pruners is contaminated with the virus.

To reduce the spread of the eriophyid mites from the site of an infected rose, nearby roses can be treated with a bifenthrin spray every two weeks between April and September. This may prevent additional plants from becoming diseased. Examples of products containing bifenthrin are Hi-Yield Bug Blaster Bifenthrin 2.4 Concentrate or Ready-to-Spray, Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II Turf Termite & Ornamental Insect Control Concentrate, and Ortho Bug-B-Gon Max Lawn & Garden Insect Killer Concentrate. Check product labels for the correct active ingredient. Follow label directions for use.

10 tips for companion planting for natural pest control and organic sustainability

Companion planting for pest control and to encourage plants to grow with more vigor has fascinated men for centuries; however, few backyard gardeners know how to use these natural methods for organic sustainability and how to improve your garden. Plants that work together to help one another grow; plants that repel insects for organic pest management; and plants that repel other plants for natural herbicide control are of great value to both small backyard gardeners and commercial growers.
Certain protective botanicals don’t always act instantaneously, and must be planted several years or seasons in advance to be of utmost cumulative effect. For example, companion planting pest control using marigolds to prevent nematode growth should be done at least one season ahead before expecting to see great results.

It’s important to remember that both secretions and odors from various plants are valuable traits for organic pest control and companion planting where repelling or attracting certain aspects and effects is attempted.

Ten easy companion planting tips for to use now

Companion planting for chemical free pesticides and organic sustainability is a huge subject that can take years to master; however, there are a few easy things you can do in your own garden right now to make use of this intriguing method of gardening.

1. Protect carrots by planting them with leeks to repel both carrot and onion flies. They won’t even lay their eggs and your yield will increase tremendously.

2. Growing radishes or kohlrabi? Plant them with lettuce to repel earth flies that hate the smell of lettuce and make them take flight.

3. Aphids will injure almost all plants, causing headaches for gardeners everywhere. To repel aphids, plant nasturiums around broccoli and bunches of chives among sunflowers and tomatoes to discourage infestations.

4. Ladybugs are natural enemies to aphids and are excellent for use in organic pest management. Order ladybugs in bulk online or buy them from gardening centers. If you’re wondering how to improve your garden and reduce the aphid population, this is one of the most effective methods of doing so.

5. Asparagus and tomatoes complement one another and improve the vigor of both plants. Place a row of asparagus between two rows of tomato plants.

6. Beans and potatoes work in concert for organic pest control. Planting bush beans with potatoes in alternating rows protects the spuds from the Colorado potato beetle and the beans from the Mexican bean beetle.

7. Broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables belonging to the cabbage family do well when companion planted with celery, dill, peppermint, sage and rosemary; as well as potatoes, onions and beets.

8. Repel moles around a vegetable garden with a border of castor beans; mice with a border of daffodils; and yarrow makes a wonderful boarder for an herb garden as it encourages the growth of essential oils in the herbs.

9. Remember that companion planting for pest control includes keeping those cute little rabbits out of the garden. Onions repel rabbits and can be inter-planted with peas, beans, lettuce and cabbage.

10. If your garden attracts raccoons, plant corn and pumpkins together so that the large pumpkin leaves grow around the base of the corn stalks. Cayenne pepper sprinkled on the corn silk will also act as a deterrent.

Because some plants are poisonous, it’s important to keep unattended young children away from the garden. Natural organic pest control may be a complex subject; however, there are many simple things you can do in to improve your garden for increased vegetable yield and organic sustainability.

Sources for this article include:

http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Companion_planting

http://www.seedsofchange.com

http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/companion-planting.html

Riotte, Louise. Carrots Love Tomatoes. Charlotte: Garden Way Publishing, 1975

Mayer, Dale. The Complete Guide to Companion Planting: Everything You Need to Know to Make Your Garden Successful (Back-To-Basics Gardening). OcalaL: Atlantic Publishing Group, Inc., 2010

About the author:
READ MORE OF JEAN (JB) BARDOT’S ARTICLES AT THE FOLLOWING LINKS:

The JB Bardot Archives: www.jbbardot.com
Natural News: http://www.naturalnews.com/Author1686.html

JB Bardot is an herbalist and a classical homeopath, and has a post graduate degree in holistic nutrition. Bardot cares for both people and animals, using alternative approaches to health care and lifestyle. She writes about wellness, green living, alternative medicine, holistic nutrition, homeopathy, herbs and naturopathic medicine. You can find her at The JB Bardot Archives at www.jbbardot.com and on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/jbbardot23 or on Twitter at jbbardot23 or https://twitter.com/jbbardot23

Source of Article is Natural News, article published for only information purpose.

How to attract wildlife to your Garden

Created by Spalding Bulb

Feeding the community one garden at a time

May 29, 2013, by Leslie Davis

I work with a non-profit organization, Seed2Need, outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico that grows gardens to generate fresh produce for local food pantries. New Mexico consistently ranks high for poverty and food insecurity. Funding available to our central food bank has been reduced due to state and federal budget constraints. With so many relying on their services, they cannot afford to invest in perishable commodities, but the importance of fruit and vegetables to basic nutrition cannot be denied. Addressing the issue at a localized level seemed like the most efficient way to alleviate the problem.

Our mission is to reduce hunger in our community by growing gardens, gleaning fruit from local orchards and soliciting produce donations at our local grower’s market. Produce harvested is often in the hands of the families who need it within hours of harvest.  Picked fresh.  Distributed fresh.  Consumed locally by families facing food insecurity.

What started as a small garden in a neighbor’s horse corral to supply one food pantry has evolved over the last five years into Seed2Need; now serving 15 food pantries and soup kitchens in the area. Our community is very supportive, with many local property owners donating land, equipment and excess fruit from their orchards. We receive financial assistance from local businesses and individuals. We have volunteers of all ages and every walk of life. Our organization involves service by the community for the community.

Many of us have an interest in gardening, but no background in agriculture. This has been an educational experience for many, if not most, of the volunteers involved. There has been a steep learning curve as we realize what we are doing wrong and recognize what we are doing right, changing and adapting as we progress. The varieties of produce have been altered based on productivity and various planting, irrigation and mulching techniques have been modified to increase efficiency. As a volunteer organization we have to be aware of cost effective, labor saving methods.

Growing in New Mexico is nothing like growing in the more fertile climates of the Midwest or Southern states. New Mexico is a dry, arid, hot, high mountain climate. We have been experiencing a prolonged, extreme drought over the last several years. As a result of the drought, many farmers are unable to plant crops this summer, making the cost of fresh produce more cost prohibitive to families experiencing economic hardship and making water conservation a vital part of our plan. Although our gardens are close to the Rio Grande River we utilize a T-Tape drip irrigation system, drawn from a well, rather than relying on flood irrigation. This reduces the weeds brought in from flood irrigation and conserves water by applying small increments directly to the plants. We also utilize plastic mulch to prevent rapid evaporation and to create a barrier for weeds.

We have chosen vegetables that produce over a period of time, rather than a singular harvest, to ensure that we can provide a plentiful supply over several months. We also take into consideration regional tastes and diet. Currently we are growing 2 acres of tomatoes, green chile, cucumbers, watermelons, cantaloupe, zucchini and green beans. Over the last three years we have generated 70 tons of produce for local food pantries. With two acres planted this spring we are hoping to harvest 30 tons this summer alone.

For more information please visit our website, www.Seed2Need.us, or like our Seed2Need page on Facebook. If you have any questions about our techniques or starting a garden to address hunger within your community, please email Seed2Need@gmail.com.

Bio: Leslie Davis has a finance and economics degree with 25 years of sales and marketing experience and a desire to apply those skills to make a positive impact on her community.

Contact Info: www.Seed2Need.us
Leslie Davis
505.933.1345
www.Seed2Need.us
Facebook: Seed2Need
Seed2Need@gmail.com

5 Secrets To Watering Your Garden

1. Try a Toothpick Watering Test

Just as you test a baking cake for doneness by sticking it with a wooden toothpick, you can do the same to see whether a garden bed needs watering. Stick the toothpick into the soil as far as it will go, then examine it. If it comes out clean, it's time to water. If any soil clings to the pick, you can forgo watering and test the soil again the next day

2. Bury Milk Jug Tricklers

Tomatoes aren't the only garden plants that like lots of water. Others with a big thirst include squashes, melons, and rosebushes. How to keep them quenched? Bury plastic milk-jug reservoirs alongside. Start by perforating a jug in several places. Dig a planting hole large enough to accommodate both plant and jug, and bury the jug so its spout is at soil level. After refilling the hole and tamping down the soil, fill the jug with water. Then top it to overflowing at least once a week, and your plant's roots will stay nice and moist.

3. Offer a Cup of Tea To Your Ferns

Also, when planting a fern, put a used tea bag in the bottom of the planting hole to act as a reservoir while the fern adapts to its new spot; the roots will draw up a bit more nitrogen. Another drink ferns like: a very weak solution of household ammonia and water (1 tablespoon ammonia to 1 litre water), which also feeds them a little nitrogen.

4. Add Borax to Sun-Sensitive Plants

To keep direct sunlight from burning the leaves of ferns, azaleas, yews, hollies, hostas, and herbs such as thyme and chives, add borax to your watering can — 1 tablespoon dissolved in 4 litres of water. Wet the leaves of the plants and soak the soil with the solution a couple of times in the spring (more than two treatments is overdoing it), and your plants will be better able to stand up to the sun's hot rays in summer.

5. Recycle Unsalted Cooking Water

Boiled foods release nutrients of one kind or another, so why pour their cooking water down the drain? Let the water cool, and then use it to give a garden plant or two a healthful drink. But take note: When you cook any of the following, do not add salt to the water because salt is harmful to plants.

• Eggs: Hardboiled eggs leave calcium in the cooking water, so use the liquid to water calcium-loving solanaceous garden plants: tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, chayote squash, tomatillos.

• Spinach: Plants need iron, too — and spinach water gives them not only iron but also a decent dose of potassium.

• Pasta: Starchy water will spur the release of plant nutrients in the soil, meaning starch may be better for plants than for you.

• Potatoes: Ditto.

Source of Article:  

A M Awan A M AWAN A M AWAN Visit My Site

A M Awan is Student of M Phil, He like gardening and like to read about Gardening, Agriculture, Entomology etc. Awan’s founder Chairman and CEO of Agriculture Information Bank, mission of Agriculture Information Bank is “To provide all information related to agriculture at one spot”

8 Medicinal Plants You Can Grow at Home

Grow a Healing Garden

Physic (or physick) was the name given to gardens of healing plants grown by physicians and monks in ancient times and by home gardeners well into the nineteenth century. Why not plant your own with some of these herbs? By investing a little sweat and the cost of seeds, you'll have the makings of infusions, teas, and balms. Just choose a sunny spot with rich soil for your garden. Perennial plants will grow from season to season, while annuals must be reseeded or transplanted.

1. Basil

Annual: Harvest the young leaves of what's called "the king of herbs" as needed.
Uses: Flatulence, lack of appetite, cuts, and scrapes

2. Chamomile

Annual: Use the flower heads for infusions and salves.
Uses: Indigestion, anxiety, skin inflammations.

3. Feverfew

Perennial: Use leaves and flowers for teas; chew leaves to ease headache pain.
Uses: Headaches (including migraines), arthritis, skin conditions.

4. Lemon Balm

Perennial: A relative of mint, lemon balm is a versatile medicinal herb.
Uses: Anxiety, insomnia, wounds, herpes, insect bites, flatulence, upset stomach.

5. Parsley

Biennial: Like its curly cousin P. crispum, this herb is loaded with nutrients.
Uses: Flatulence, bad breath.

6. Sage

Perennial: Sage's genus name, Salvia, means "to heal," reflecting its early use as a medicinal, not culinary, herb.
Uses: Mouth and throat inflammations.

7. St. John's Wort

Perennial: The glossy leaves and yellow flowers are this herb's active parts.
Uses: Mild to moderate depression. (Talk to your doctor first.)

8. Thyme

Perennial: The active principle in thyme, thymol, is a strong antiseptic.
Uses: Coughs, congestion, indigestion, gas.

Source of Article:
 

6 Tips for Starting a Windowsill Garden

1. Let the Sunshine In

Locate your brightest window and add a set of grow lights, if needed.

2. Make a Flat Plan

Whether you use flowerpots, a seed-starting box or repurposed grocery-store containers, make sure there are holes in the bottom for drainage and a liner underneath to catch excess water.

3. Get Dirty

Fill your chosen receptacle three quarters of the way with organic potting soil. Sprinkle a handful of seeds on top and cover with a light patting of earth.

4. Dampen, Don't Drown

Use a spray bottle instead of a watering can to hydrate the soil until germination.

5. Trim Regularly

To ensure a long yield and maximum bushiness, give greens a regular haircut even when you're not cooking with them. You can dry and store excess herbs for later use.

6. Care for the Air

To prevent plants from drying out, keep air flowing with an oscillating fan and use a humidifier to counteract winter's drying effect.

Source of Article:

Winter Flowering Trees and Shrubs

If you thought there wasn't much to look at outside at this time of year - think again. Dozens of beautiful trees and shrubs are at their colourful best in December and into early spring and here are some of my favourites.

Flourishing in the coldest part of our Derbyshire garden are some of the winter flowering cherries. Prunus subhirtella 'Autumnalis' bears flutters of white flowers throughout winter from November till Easter; it's close relative, Prunus subhirtella 'Rosea' is similar with soft pink flowers.

The subtle difference, apart from the colour, which I have noted over the years is that the white form usually has a few flowers virtually continuously during winter unless the weather is exceptionally cold whereas the pink clone has bolder flushes of flowers off and on during this period.

Elsewhere in our arboretum, Prunus subhirtella 'Fukubana' is growing into a small tree bearing delicate, semi-double rose pink flowers sometimes as early as February during mild winters and the Japanese Apricot, Prunus mume 'Beni-Shidare', is now a small, distinctly lollipop shaped tree flowering in late winter or early spring when its' rich carmine pink flowers exude a powerful perfume.

Three , perhaps more unusual choices for flowering winter interest are the Golden Alder Alnus incana 'Aurea', Persian Ironwoods Parrotia persica and Parrotiopsis jacquemontii, both surprisingly members of the witch hazel family.

The Golden Alder is a slender, rather smaller tree than wild alders with soft yellow foliage all summer and really conspicuous bright yellow, flushed red catkins often during the harshest weather.

 

The best selection of ironwood, Parrotia persica 'Vanessa' has a myriad of breathtaking autumn colours, indeed the clonal name “Vanessa” refers to the genus of butterflies which includes red admirals. During winter it bears clusters of velvety crimson flowers, interesting rather than showy but yet more interest for the winter garden.

Parrotiopsis jacquemontii is a large shrub or small tree, preferring a woodland garden and bears conspicuous creamy white flowers in late winter or early spring, rather like small versions of the American or Chinese flowering dogwoods.

Arguable the finest winter flowering shrubs or very small trees, witch hazels, will break into full blossom during the New Year. As a young nurseryman in the seventies, there were very few varieties available; nowadays you could find over 100 cultivars in specialist collections.

Witch hazels are hardy, surprisingly wind tolerant and suitable for most situations other than shallow soils over chalk. They have one real need, good drainage and they absolutely won't tolerate wet feet!

Despite all the improvements, Hamamelis x intermedia 'Pallida' is rightly still a firm favourite with its' strap-like, sulphur yellow flowers and a deliciously sweet perfume. Hamamelis x intermedia 'Diane' is still one of the best red flowered varieties and also has fiery autumn colours but little scent. A recent introduction, Hamamelis x intermedia 'Aurora' has especially bold strap like, scented orange yellow flowers and fantastic autumn colour.

 

Looking now at smaller plants, already the first few buds of winter sweet, Chimonanthus praecox and the Nepalese Daphne bholua are just opening as I write in mid December, their perfume is heavenly, you'll never buy anything that smells so good in a bottle!

Other woody plants will soon burst forth shortly after the New Year, one of my favourites is the winter flowering honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima and Lonicera x purpusii 'Winter Beauty' (both completely indistinguishable to me). This tough, hardy, semi-evergreen shrub is one of the very few plants which will actually perform better in a cold, exposed and open situation. There it will become completely deciduous and far showier as the flowers can't hide behind the foliage.

Connoisseurs might look out for the very rare Lonicera elisae. Sadly this winter flowering species (the first buds are already opening) lacks fragrance but the ivory white flowers are much bolder than Lonicera fragrantissima and, during the summer months the young foliage is flushed with chocolate purple.

Robert Vernon the Younger, is the owner of Bluebell Arboretum and Nursery in south Derbyshire.

 

About Author:

Robert Vernon | 07:00 UK time, Monday, 19 December 2011

February Flowers

February is the month of Valentine’s Day and bouquets of red roses are a common sight this time of year. But did you know that there are many other species of flower available in February as well?

Wild primroses, crocus and Aubretia can all be found across the UK in February if you know where to look. Despite the chilly weather there are many flowers and plants that will start to emerge this month.

See below for a list of flowers which you can find in February:

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LiveJournal Tags: Gardening Talk,Flowers,Valentine,February

Acacia (Mimosa) – Tiny petal-less yellow flowers cover the stems
Aconitum (Monkshood) – Tall spiky flowers, long lasting but poisonous
Alstroemeria (Peruvian Lily) – Very popular and long lasting flowers, often bi-coloured
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) – Large very striking trumpet shaped flowers, often grown indoors from bulbs
Ammi (Queen Anne’s lace) – Masses of delicate white flowers, ideal as a filler
Anemone (Windflower) – Delicate, papery flowers, available in vibrant and pale colours
Anigozanthus (Kangaroo Paw) – Unusual furry buds with insignificant flowers. Ideal for modern arrangements
Anthurium (Painter’s Palette) – Exotic waxy looking flowers
Aranthera (Scorpion Orchid) – Long lasting orchid with small flowers on upright stems
Asclepias (Milkweed) – Clusters of tiny flowers, ideal as a filler
Aster (Michaelmas daisy) – Popular filler with daisy like flowers on upright stems
Astrantia – Starry mauve or white flowers, slightly unpleasant smell
Arachnis (Spider Orchid) – Long stems with slender petals and spotted flowers
Banksia (Bottlebrush) – Exotic Protea from Australia, large flower heads made up of masses of tiny flowers
Bouvardia – Clusters of small tubular flowers, use with special flower food. Not all colours are available throughout the year
Bupleurum – Insignificant yellow green flowers. Used more as a foliage and as a filler
Marigold (Calendula) – Popular daisy-like flower with a country garden feel
Calla Lily (Zantedeschia, Arum Lily) – Striking single flowers. The coloured varieties are smaller than the white ones, and not all colours are available all year round
Campanula (Canterbury Bells) – Quite large bell shaped flowers, several to a stem
Carnation – Very long lasting. Some new more interesting colours are now available
Carthamus (Safflower) – Unusual slightly thistle like flowers, dries well
Spray Carnation – Long lasting flowers. Some more interesting colours becoming available
Cattleya orchid – Large brightly coloured orchids, usually 1 or 2 per stem
Cestrum – Dense clusters of flowers at the top of straight stems
Ginger (Alpinia) – Large striking tropical flowers
Waxflower (Chamaelaucium) – Small scented flowers ideal as fillers, sold in bud and in flower
Chrysanthemum – Available as large individual showy blooms, or the spray variety. Very long lasting
Craspedia – Small completely round flower head made up of lots of tiny yellow flowers
Crocosmia – Tall spiky flowers generally known as Montbretia when grown as a garden flower.
Cymbidium Orchid – Striking flowers, which flower profusely with up to 12 flowers on each stem
Cynara (Artichoke) – The flower of the artichoke
Delphinium -Tall flower spikes. Also, Larkspur which is a type of delphinium
Dendrobium orchid (Singapore orchid) – Long lasting orchids with several blooms on each erect stem
Echinacea – Daisy like flowers with backward sloping petals
Eremurus (Foxtail Lily) – Large dramatic flowers, usually yellow or orange, with other colours less commonly available
Eryngium (Sea Holly) – Blue thistle like flowers, sometimes the blue is so intense it is hard to believe they are not dyed
Eucharis (Amazon Lily) – Beautiful slightly downward facing delicate flower heads on tall straight stems
Euphorbia (Spurge) – Graceful curving stems with loads of tiny flowers. Note not all colours are available at the same time, check with your florist
Eupatorium – pretty white small flowers, used as a filler
Forsythia – The shrub commonly grown in our gardens for their springtime flowers
Freesia – Highly popular, highly scented flowers
Fritillaria – Exotic looking flowers which hang downwards in a cluster on top of tall straight stems
Genista – Masses of tiny flowers all along the straight leafless stems. Popular filler flower
Gentiana – Long lasting trumpet shaped flowers up straight stems
Gerbera – Large daisy like flowers, a smaller ‘germini’ variety is also available
Gloriosa (Glory Lily) – A very dramatic flower with yellow edged cerise petals. The National Flower of Zimbabwe
Godetia – Several brightly coloured trumpet shaped flowers open up each stem
Gypsophila – Very popular filler flower. New smaller-flowered varieties are now available
Heliconia – Tropical flower with large very dramatic flower heads. Several different types available
Helleborus (Christmas Rose) – Short lived very delicate and subtle flowers
Hyacinth – Popular as a pot plant hyacinth and increasingly popular as a cut flower
Hypericum (St John’s Wort) – Attractive berries rather than flowers make this a very popular filler
Iris – Very popular but short lived flowers
Leucadendron (Safari Sunset) – It is the leaves rather than the flowers which make this popular
Leucospermum (Pincushion Protea) – Large flower heads which resemble a pin cushion. Long lasting
Lily – Available throughout the year, but if you are looking for a particular colour check availability with your florist
Liatris – Tall poker shaped purple flowers
Lilac – A common shrub and highly popular, strongly scented cut flower
Lily of the Valley (Convallaria) – Tiny bell shaped flowers on short stems. Very popular in wedding flowers
Limonium (Sea Lavender) – Popular as a dried flower, all varieties make good fillers, but it can have an unpleasant smell!
Lisianthus (Eustoma) – Popular flowers which open from tightly swirled buds, bi-coloured varieties also available
Lysimachia (Loose Strife) – Arching flower heads on the end of the stems, each made up of a mass of tiny flowers
Moluccella (Bells of Ireland) – Tall stems with a mass of bell shaped flowers
Muscari (Grape hyacinth) – Very small with short stems and clusters of tiny blue flowers
Narcissus (Daffodil) – Needs no description and evokes spring more than any other cut flower
Oncidium orchid (Golden Shower Orchid) – Lots of small yellow flowers along the stem. Miniature hybrids are available in colours other than yellow
Ornithogalum (Chincherinchee) – Fantastically long lasting flower, usually white and less commonly available in yellow
Paphiopedilum orchid (Slipper orchid) – Very large dramatic orchid flowers
Phalaenopsis orchid (Moth Orchid) – Large showy flowers, popular as a pot plant as well as a cut flower especially for weddings
Phlox – English country garden flower. Very popular
Protea – Large exotic flowers with many different varieties
Prunus (Flowering cherry) – Cherry blossom, beautiful delicate flowers on tall straight branches
Ranunculus – Small delicate, papery flowers.
Rose – Needs no description! Almost every colour available except true black or blue
Rudbeckia – Daisy like flower, usually sold without any petals, just the pincushion like centre
Solidago – A popular yellow filler flower
Solidaster – A cross between Solidago and the Aster. Used as a filler
Stephanotis (Wax flower) – Not generally available as a cut flower, but the individual small, waxy, white flowers are often used in bridal work
Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise) – Unmistakable large and exotic flowers with blue and orange flowers
Sunflower (Helianthus) – Striking, large daisy like flowers, usually yellow but more unusual rusty colours are becoming available
Tanecetum – A type of chrysanthemum with small button shaped flowers
Trachelium – Masses of tiny flowers create a large flat flower head
Tuberose (Polianthes) – Highly scented flowers on tall stems
Tulip – One of the most popular cut flowers in the UK with many different varieties
Veronica (Speedwell) – Delicate flower spikes add contrast to arrangements
Viburnum (Snowballs) – Short lived but increasingly popular. Each flower head is made up of a mass of tiny flowers
Vanda – Usually 6 – 8 blooms per flower stem, the petals often have a marbled appearance
Vuylstekeara – A hybrid orchid, with highly patterned petals

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Source of Article: http://www.flowers.org.uk

A. M. Awan (Author)

About Admin Author:

A M Awan Currently working as Marketing Executive at Oasis Agro Industries Pakistan, and hobbies to read about agriculture, share latest information with others

Going Organic

“Going Organic”

As this article will show, “going organic” is not simply a question of changing your brand of pesticide or fertilizer (though you may well do this). It involves a change of approach, treating the garden as a complete entity where natural systems are promoted and encouraged to thrive. You will start developing long-term strategies for maintaining soil fertility and managing pests and diseases.

Getting started

The best way to go organic is to take the plunge—to start using organic methods, and give up chemical methods, in every area of your yard at once. This article is full of practical advice to help in the conversion process, whether you’re starting with bare ground, clearing a weed patch, or converting an existing garden. These practical guidelines let you know just what is, and isn’t, appropriate to do or use in an organic garden. They concentrate on practices that aim to make a garden as self-sufficient as possible—but, recognizing that there may be a need to buy organic fertilizers, for example, or to use a pest-killing spray, particularly when you are converting a garden, the Guidelines also advise on what products are acceptable.

How long does it take?

Commercial growers converting to organic methods are required to go through a transition period, usually three years. During this period the land is managed organically, but produce cannot yet be sold as organic. Depending on past management, you may find that your garden takes time to adapt, or everything may flourish from the start! 

Change the way you shop

Organic gardening products are available in some garden centers. specialty mail order catalogs usually supply a greater range. In an ideal world, anything you use in an organic garden would itself have been grown or produced organically. unfortunately, this is not yet possible; although the range is growing, at times you will have to use conventionally grown seed, for example, or manure from animals not raised organically. To conform to the organic principles of sustainability, always try to reuse and recycle waste materials from your own garden and locality. One exception to this rule is to dispose of any unsuitable pesticides and herbicides as soon as possible. However, you must not add these to household trash or pour them down sinks or sewers. Call your university extension for advice on disposing of them safely.

Outside help

If you are new to organics, or simply need advice or new ideas, there are organizations that can help. Organic gardening groups can be found all over the country, and these are especially helpful for advice on local subjects such as tackling problem soil. Your university extension service may be able to suggest organic solutions to pest problems. And many of the large gardening websites have organic forums where you can find advice or encouragement.

Eight Simple and Easy Rules of Gardening

1.       TOP-DRESS YOUR SOIL: Every soil type — no matter how poor or rich — benefits from organic matter. I add a couple of inches of compost to the top of the soil each spring. It immediately cuts down on the number of early spring weeds that pop up. Even better, over the long haul — as it decomposes — compost increases the nutrient values of the soil and adds to the soil’s structure.

2.       WEED LITTLE, WEED OFTEN: Waiting to pull weeds every couple of weeks or longer makes it a daunting chore. I make it easy by strolling through parts of my garden each day pulling weeds as I see them. Every day I pull a couple of weeds, so I catch them when they’re smaller and easier to yank out of the ground. This prevents them from going to seed and creating a whole new crop of weeds for me to tackle in the future.

3.       PINCH NOW, ENJOY LATER: Many late-blooming perennials appreciate a springtime pinch. I nip the tops of mums, tall sedums, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and other late bloomers to keep them compact and tidy. A springtime pinch also delays flowering, so you can extend the blooming season in your garden. Generally, it’s best to nip off just the top couple of inches of the new growth in midspring.

4.       DEADHEAD FOR TIDINESS: Deadhead annuals, perennials, and flowering shrubs. This gives some plants, such as blanket flower and veronica, a longer bloom season, and keeps your garden looking tidy. It also prevents plants from going to seed — so they have more energy to bloom well next year.

5.       MULCH MATTERS: Spread a few inches of mulch over your garden. Like compost, mulch offers many benefits. It cuts down on weeds, helps the soil conserve moisture by reducing evaporation, keeps the soil from getting too warm in summer, and — as mulch made from organic matter decomposes — adds to soil structure. I spread mulch in the spring, once all my plants come up, and reap the benefits for the rest of the season!

6.       FILL BARE SPOTS: It seems like every spring I discover something didn’t make it over the winter or didn’t spread the way I expected, and there’s a bare spot in the garden. Prevent this problem by tucking in a new plant in areas that are bare for a while but later fill in with other plants. I often insert cool-season annuals, such as pansies and snapdragons. By the time the original plants fill in the space, the pansies are winding down.

7.       WATER WISELY: The most efficient way to water your garden is with an inexpensive soaker hose. I bury mine underneath the mulch. It further prevents water evaporation losses, keeps me from having to drag a hose all over the yard, and puts an end to looking at a black rubber hose running through my garden all season long. Consider adding a timer to save trips outside turning the water on and off.

8.       STAKE TALL PLANTS: Give tall plants good support by staking them. I stake my soon-to-be-tall plants fairly early in the season — that way I know they are safe and secure. I won’t have to worry about losing beautiful delphiniums, foxgloves, culver’s root, or lilies to harsh weather later in the season.