The organic way: an introduction

organic methods allow you to create any garden you want. in times of growing concern about environmental damage and climate change, they provide practical and effective solutions for managing any planted space.
	From food to flowers Their concern was, in particular, for healthy food production, and it is in the area of food production that organic growing is most advanced. But organic methods are not just for the fruit and vegetable patch. they can be applied to all areas of the yard, from lawns to shrubs to windowsills.
The future is organicthe last decade has seen a phenomenal rise in interest in all things organic. the organic movement—for a long time an energetic, committed, active, but relatively small group of enthusiasts—has really come of age. organic food is widely available both in supermarkets and in specialty stores; many governments are supporting organic farming and research; and more and more people are turning to organic methods of gardening.
	Every time there is another food scare, or the dangers of another pesticide come to light, more people turn to eating, and growing, organically. As the effects of climate change become more obvious, and we are encouraged to reduce our “carbon footprint,” organic gardening offers practical ways in which we can do this in the garden.

Gardening Tip of the day

Using the same sprayer equipment for weed control and then for insect control is neither safe. No matter how well a tank is rinsed after use of a herbicide, a residue will be left in the tank and in the gaskets, hoses and parts. If the same tank is then used with an insecticide to spray a plant, it is possible to kill the plant with the herbicide left in the tank. The wisest policy is to maintain two sprayers, one for herbicides and another for insecticides and fungicides.

If you have any gardening problem send us your email at gardening@agrinfobank.com salma@agrinfobank.com

Gardening Talk: Soil Preparation

Begin soil preparation by removing old plant supports, plastic mulches, excessive vegetative residues and other debris from the garden area several weeks before planting to allow the soil to dry out. The amount of plant residue that may be turned under depends on how large the pieces are, how the garden will be turned and how long before the area will be worked.

If there’s no already-prepared-for-planting soil in your backyard, then you should do it yourself. If you know nothing about its quality, you have two options: buying a home testing kit, or sending a sample to your local agricultural extension office. You will get all the necessary data about the soil for low cost, and you’ll get detailed information about the nutrients that the soil needs.

Long cucumber or tomato vines, for example, may be spaded or plowed under but may tangle on the tines of a rototiller. Cover crops and thick mulch or crop residue should be turned under six weeks or more before planting. This will promote decay and reduce nutritional and insect and disease problems in the garden. Adding three pounds of ammonium nitrate per 1000 square feet of soil surface before turning organic materials under will speed decay considerably.
Turning under significant amounts (an inch or more) of plant materials such as compost, organic mulches, leaves or cover crops annually will gradually increase soil organic matter content and improve most garden soils. The moisture-holding capacity will improve, as will the soil structure and nutrient-holding capability. Root penetration will improve on clay soils and soil crusting will be reduced.
Garden soil should not be worked when it is too wet. Pick up a handful of soil and roll it into a ball. If the soil sticks together and does not crumble when dropped, it is too wet to work. Soil worked too wet forms large, hard clods which are difficult to break up and are completely unsuitable for a seedbed.

Soil should be worked to a depth of at least 6 or 7 inches and smoothed before planting. Seed should be planted only in moist, finely aggregated soil. Soils worked into a powdery condition are more likely to crust. Small seed planted in cloddy soil usually dry out and germinate poorly. Garden soil may be worked with farm equipment, a rototiller or spaded with a shovel.
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Gardening with Epsom Salt

Epsom salt is a popular and well-reputed supplement in organic gardening. With the recent push towards “green” living, Epsom salt is an ideal answer to a variety of organic gardening needs. Both cost effective and gentle on your greenery, Epsom salt is an affordable and green treatment for your well-tended plants—both indoors and out.

Completely one-of-a-kind with a chemical structure unlike any other, Epsom salt (or Magnesium Sulfate) is one of the most economic and versatile salt-like substances in the world. Throughout time, Epsom salt has been known as a wonderful garden supplement, helping to create lush grass, full roses, and healthy, vibrant greenery. It has long been considered a planter’s “secret” ingredient to a lovely, lush garden, and is such a simple, affordable way to have a dramatic impact. Just as gourmet salt works with the ingredients in food to enhance and bring a meal to its full potential, Epsom salt enhances fertilizer and soil’s capabilities to bring a deeper level of vitality to your garden’s composition. Ultra Epsom Salt is the highest quality Epsom salt available, and is widely celebrated for its powerful benefits on natural life, ranging from household plants to shrubs, lawns and even trees. 

Why Epsom Salt Works in the Garden

Please note that not all Epsom salts are created equal. When using Epsom salt in gardening, it is strongly recommended that the highest quality Epsom salt available is utilized. Ultra Epsom Salt is the brand you can trust for your garden, lawn, plants and trees.

Composed almost exclusively of Magnesium Sulfate, Epsom salt is intensely rich in these two minerals that are both crucial to healthy plant life. These same minerals which are so beneficial for bathing and using around the house are also a wonderful facilitator to your garden, helping it reach its fullest potential and creating a lush and vibrant outdoor space. Unlike common fertilizers, Epsom Salt does not build up in the soil over time, so it is very safe to use.

Magnesium

Magnesium is beneficial to plants from the beginning of their life, right when the seed begins to develop. It assists with the process of seed germination; infusing the seed with this important mineral and helping to strengthen the plant cell walls, so that the plant can receive essential nutrients. Magnesium also plays a crucial role in photosynthesis by assisting with the creation of chlorophyll, used by plants to convert sunlight into food. In addition, it is a wonderful help in allowing the plant to soak up phosphorus and nitrogen, which serve as vital fertilizer components for the soil. Magnesium is believed to bring more flowers and fruit to your garden, increasing the bounty as well as the beauty of your space.

Sulfate

Sulfate, a mineral form of sulfur found in nature, is an equally important nutrient for plant life. Sulfate is essential to the health and longevity of plants, and aides in the production of chlorophyll. It joins with the soil to make key nutrients more effective for plants, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Sulfate works in conjunction with Magnesium to create a “vitamin” full of minerals, nourishment and health benefits for your garden.

How to Use Epsom Salt in the Garden

Epsom Salt for Houseplants

Perhaps the most natural and easiest place to start with Ultra Epsom Salt is with the potted plants that are dispersed around your house and porch. Epsom salt is such a simple way to increase their blooming and health, and is something that you can include easily as a part of a normal routine. For potted plants, simply dissolve 2 tablespoons per gallon of water, and substitute this solution for normal watering at least once a month – although it is safe to do this as often as desired.

Adding this Epsom salt solution to houseplants that have been potted for a long time is especially useful, due in part to natural salt, which can build up in the soil and clog the root cells of the plant. Ultra Epsom Salt can help to clear up this accumulation of natural salts in the pot, and lead to a revival in the plant's health and vibrancy. It is also useful for a plant that has just been potted, as it will more easily receive the proper nutrients and have a healthy start in life. As general guidance, most plants need plenty of sun to receive the benefits of Ultra Epsom Salt (and photosynthesize), so be sure to keep typical houseplants in a sunny area of the home unless instructed otherwise. Using Ultra Epsom Salt with potted vegetable plants is a really wonderful idea as well, because it can increase the amount of fruit or vegetables you receive from the one plant. This is particularly beneficial to apartment dwellers and those with little or no personal yard space, as Ultra Epsom Salt can help you receive a large bounty within a confined space. A wonderful way to easily and effectively grow food!

First Planting with Epsom Salt

For setting up your garden and the initial planting stage, Ultra Epsom Salt is especially useful for getting a nourishing start. Prep your garden soil by sprinkling up to 1 cup of Ultra Epsom Salt per 100 square feet, and then work it into the soil before seeding or planting. This helps the seeds to germinate better, and start with a strong and healthy growth. It is also very beneficial for more mature plants that you are going to add to your garden, since the transition can be difficult for their growth and health.

Vegetable Gardens & Epsom Salt

For maintaining and creating a vegetable garden, Epsom salt can help you refresh and revitalize the garden you have already created—or create a healthy beginning to a new space. Ultra Epsom Salt is advised for use with all fruits, vegetables, and herbs (It is not advisable to use Epsom salt with the planting of sage—it is not beneficial for this particular plant). As previously mentioned, it does not cause build-up or any harm to plants when used, and so can be used safely and effectively during any stage of the plant’s life. For general purposes, Ultra Ep

Tomatoes & Epsom Salt

Tomatoes are prone to magnesium deficiency later in the growing season, and display this through yellow leaves and less production. They can greatly benefit from Ultra Epsom Salt treatments both at the beginning of their planting and throughout their seasonal life. When gardening, simply add one or two tablespoons per hole before planting the seeds or transplants. Then as the tomato matures, either work in one tablespoon of Ultra Epsom Salt per foot of plant height around the base of the tomato plant (individually), or create the tank sprayer solution mentioned above and use that every two weeks.

Peppers & Epsom Salt

Like tomatoes, peppers are also prone to magnesium deficiency and thrive much more fully with the use of Epsom salt. This can be done in the same way as tomatoes—through adding one or two tablespoons per hole before planting (for seeds and grown plants), and then twice a week based on the height of the plant (see above). A study conducted by the National Gardening Association discovered that four out of six home gardeners noticed that their Epsom salt-treated peppers were larger than those that were un-treated. Many gardeners credit their healthy, vibrant peppers and tomatoes to Epsom salt. This solution truly aides in the production level, aesthetic beauty and quality of the harvest produced.

Roses & Epsom Salt

Roses in particular can greatly benefit from Epsom salt, and it is said to make foliage greener, healthier and lead to more canes and roses. Start by soaking unplanted rose bushes in one half cup of Ultra Epsom Salt per gallon of water before planting, to help the roots get stronger and firmer. Then, when planting, add one tablespoon of Ultra Epsom Salt per hole before inserting the rose bush. After the roses are planted (and to boost already planted roses), make the liquid Ultra Epsom Salt solution listed above for either a tank sprayer or watering can, or simply work in one tablespoon of Ultra Epsom Salt per foot of plant (individually). Once during the beginning of the season, it is also advised to work one half cup of Ultra Epsom Salt into the base of the plant to encourage blooming canes and healthy basal cane development.

Shrubs & Epsom Salt

For flowering and green shrubs, particularly evergreens, azaleas and rhododendrons, Epsom salt can improve the blooming of the flowers and the vibrancy of the greenery. Simply work in one tablespoon of Ultra Epsom Salt per nine square feet of bush into the soil, over the root zone, which allows the shrubs to absorb the nutritional benefits. Repeat this every two to four weeks for optimal results.

som Salt works well as a saline solution for a tank sprayer. Simply fill your tank sprayer (commonly available at gardening and home improvement stores) with 1 tablespoon of Ultra Epsom Salt per gallon of water. Then spray your garden after the initial planting, later when it begins to grow (or after a month or so for transplants), and lastly when the vegetables begin to mature. It is believed that this practice will give you healthier vegetables, and a lush vegetable garden.

Source:

Common Problem of Roses

Beginner’s Guide to Making Compost: Organic Gardening

By: Willi Evans Galloway

Nature creates compost all the time without human intervention. But gardeners can step in and speed up the composting process by creating the optimal conditions for decomposition: Air + Water + Carbon + Nitrogen = Compost

Air. Like most living things, the bacteria that decompose organic matter, and the other creatures that make up the compost ecosystem, need air. Compost scientists say compost piles need porosity—the ability for air to move into the pile. I like to think of porosity in terms of fluffiness. A fluffy pile has plenty of spaces—or pores—for air to move about. A flat, matted pile of, say, grass clippings does not. Even fluffy piles compress during the composting process. Occasionally turning your pile refluffs the material, moves new material into the center, and helps improve air flow into the pile, says Craig Cogger, Ph.D., extension soil scientist at Washington State University.

Water. Compost microbes also need the right amount of water. Too much moisture reduces airflow, causes temperatures to fall, and can make the pile smell; too little water slows decomposition and prevents the pile from heating. Conventional wisdom says that compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge, says Abigail Maynard, Ph.D., agricultural scientist at the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station.

Carbon ingredients. The microbes that break down organic matter use carbon as an energy source. Ingredients with a high percentage of carbon are usually dry and brown or yellow in color. The most common high-carbon ingredients are leaves, straw, and corn stalks. Sometimes people call these ingredients browns.

Nitrogen ingredients. Microbes need nitrogen for the proteins that build their tiny bodies. Ingredients high in nitrogen are generally green, moist plant matter, such as leaves, or an animal by-product, such as manure. These ingredients are called greens, but in reality they can be green, brown, and all colors in between.

C/N ratio. In order for a compost pile to decompose efficiently, you need to create the right ratio of carbon (C) to nitrogen (N) (C/N). Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix.

Building a Compost Pile
There are two main ways to make compost: cold compost (minimum effort) and hot compost (maximum effort).

Cold Black Gold
Nearly every expert I talked with admitted (sometimes sheepishly) that they do this type of composting in their own back yards because it’s easy. Here’s how to make cold compost: Mix together yard wastes, such as grass clippings, leaves, and weeds, place them in a pile, and wait 6 to 24 months for the microorganisms, earthworms, and insects to break down the material. Add new materials to the top of the pile. You can reduce the waiting period by occasionally turning the pile and monitoring and adjusting the pile’s moisture level. The compost will be ready when the original ingredients are unrecognizable. Generally, compost on the bottom of the pile “finishes” first. You may not want to include woody material, because it breaks down too slowly.

Pros: Takes little effort to build and maintain; can be built over time.
Cons: Takes up to 2 years to produce finished compost; doesn’t kill pathogens and weed seeds; undecomposed pieces may need to be screened out.

Some Like It Hot

Hot, or fast, composting takes more work and the right combination of ingredients, but you can get high-quality compost in under 2 months. Here’s how: Wait until you have enough material to create compost critical mass (27 cubic feet), which is the minimum volume for a pile to hold heat. Then mix one part green matter with two parts brown matter. Bury any vegetative food scraps in the center to avoid attracting animals. Check to make sure the mixture has the ideal moisture level. Continue adding mixed greens and browns and checking the moisture until you’ve built a pile that is 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet, or 5 feet wide at the base and 3 feet wide at the top. The microorganisms will immediately start decomposing, and their bodies will release heat. The pile will insulate the heat, and the temperature of the pile’s interior will reach 120°F to 150°F. Turn the pile weekly and regulate moisture levels. After about a month, the hot phase will be done, and the pile will finish decomposing at temperatures between 80°F and 110°F. The compost will be ready to use when it no longer heats and all of the original ingredients are unrecognizable.

Pros: Produces high-quality compost within 2 months (and sometimes as soon as a few weeks); can kill weed seeds and pathogens. (Organic Gardening does not recommend adding weed seeds or manures that contain human pathogens to compost—hot or cold—because uniform heating is difficult to achieve in home compost piles.)
Cons: Time-consuming; requires careful management of moisture, air, and C/N ratio.

Source:http://www.organicgardening.com

Can You Grow a Black Pepper Plant From a Black Pepper Seed From the Grocery Store?

Peppercorns are the dried fruits of the Piper Nigrum plant. This plant is a vertical vine native to India, but you can grow the plant temperate climates around the world. The soil must maintain a temperature of between 75 and 80 degrees F until the seeds germinate. If your soil is not warm enough, plant the seeds in pots and bring them indoors during colder months.

Piper Nigrum Seeds

• Peppercorns are the fruit of the Piper Nigrum plant. Each fruit contains a single seed, and that seed will germinate if the fruit is planted in fertile soil that maintains the required temperature until the seed sprouts.

Culinary Peppercorns

• Peppercorns found in grocery stores should not be planted. Those meant for culinary use have been dried and treated to prevent germination so the peppercorns will not sprout in storage. While there is a small possibility they could germinate if planted properly, it is unlikely. Even if the seeds do sprout, there is a chance that the plant would be weak or unhealthy because of the treatment process, so it is advisable to avoid using culinary peppercorns and instead obtain seeds meant for growing.

1. Buying Peppercorn Seeds

   • Because Piper Nigrum is native to India, you may not be able to find these seeds locally. Harvest viable seeds from existing plants, or obtain them through specialty seed catalogs or websites. It may be difficult to locate the seeds, because many companies do not carry them.
   Growing Peppercorn Plants
   • Unless you live in a very warm climate with mild weather year-round, grow peppercorn plants in containers so you can bring them indoors when the weather is cold. Use one 5-gallon pot for three peppercorn plants. Fill the container with a quality potting soil that contains a good amount of organic compost. Use your finger to poke three 1-inch-deep holes in the soil about 3 to 4 inches apart and 3 inches away from the sides of the container. Drop one seed into each hole, then cover with soil and water. Water the plants about three times per week, and keep the soil moist. Peppercorn plants do not tolerate dry soil very well.

Source: http://www.ehow.com

How to Grow Black Pepper (Peppercorns)

Black pepper, Piper nigrum, is a tropical plant that is grown for black pepper, white pepper, and red peppercorns. The three colors of peppercorns are different stages of the same peppercorn.

Instructions

1. Pepper is a warm growing plant that will stop growing when below 65F and will not tolerate any amount of frost. Fortunately they make very good container plants.
2. Pipers like to be in partial to full sun with 50% or better humidity (although they do fine below 50%) Plants should be watered thoroughly when soil appears dry.
3. Pipers are moderate to light feeders and should be fed with a 10-10-10 fertilizer 1/4 tsp per gallon every 1-2 weeks (discontinuing in the winter)
4. For peppercorn production, pipers should be grown under bright light and kept warm. They are vining in nature and slow growing. It will take a couple of years before they start producing flowers then peppercorns.

Source: http://www.ehow.com

Make Your Own Fertilizer

By Erin Huffstetler, About.com Guide

Learn how to make your own fertilizer, and keep your garden green without spending a lot of green. Here are several great homemade fertilizer recipes to try:

Epsom Salt Fertilizer

Use in Place of:

Houseplant food
Vegetable fertilizer
Rose plant food

What You Need:

• 1 Tablespoon Epsom Salt
• 1 gallon water
• A watering can

What You Do:

1. Combine the Epsom salt and water.
2. Use the solution to water your plants.
3. Repeat once a month.

Why This Works:

Epsom salt is made up of magnesium and sulfate – both vital plant nutrients. Some magnesium-loving plants to try it on: houseplants, roses, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Coffee Ground Fertilizer

Use in Place of:

Rose plant food

What You Need:

• Used coffee grounds
• A cookie Sheet
• Newspaper

What You Do:

1. Line a cookie sheet with newspaper.
2. Then, spread your used coffee grounds out on the sheet, and allow them to dry completely.
3. Sprinkle the grounds around the base of your acid-loving plants. Azaleas, roses, rhododendrons and blueberries are just some of the plants that will benefit from this treatment.

Note: Be careful not to over do it with the grounds. Even acid-loving plants can get too much acid.

Why This Works:

Coffee grounds are rich in nitrogen, magnesium, and potassium – all important plant nutrients. They are also acidic, and help to maintain the acidity of the soil.

Egg Shell Fertilizer

Use in Place of:

Lime

What You Need:

• Egg Shells
• A blender

What You Do:

1. Save your eggs shells, and allow them to air dry.
2. Then, place the dried shells in the blender, and pulse until they are powdery-fine.
3. Sprinkle in your garden.

Why This Works:

Eggs shells are made up almost entirely of calcium carbonate – the main ingredient in agricultural lime.

Vinegar Fertilizer

Use in Place of:

Houseplant fertilizer
Rose plant food

What You Need:

• 1 Tablespoon white vinegar
• 1 gallon water
• A watering can

What You Do:

1. Combine the white vinegar and water.
2. Use the solution to water your plants.
3. Repeat every three months.

Why This Works:

The acetic acid in vinegar works to increase the acidity of the soil – just the thing for acid-loving plants.

Fireplace Ash Fertilizer

Use in Place of:

Garden fertilizer
Lime

What You Need:

• Fireplace ash

What You Do:

1. Sprinkle your fireplace ash over your garden beds, and work into the soil.

Note: Fireplace ash should not be used if your soil is alkaline, or be used around acid-loving plants.

Why This Works:

Fireplace ash is rich in potassium and calcium carbonate.

Source

10 Natural Fertilizer Recipes

Article Taken From http://www.homegrownfun.com/

By Home Grown Mom - Cindy

Look around the house and locally for materials you can use to make your own fertilizers. If you like to recycle, also check out “Funny Ways to Recycle Human Hair to Stay Green”.

• BANANA PEELS  - Eating a banana helps replenish lost potassium. Roses love potassium too. Simply throw one or two peels in the hole before planting or bury peels under mulch so they can compost naturally. Get bigger and more blooms.
• COFFEE GROUNDS  – Acid loving plants such as tomatoes, blueberries, roses and azaleas love coffee grounds mixed into the soil, sprinkled on top of the ground before watering, or poured on top of the soil. If using as a soil drench, soak 6 cups of coffee grounds in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Let it sit for 2-3 days and then saturate the soil around your plants.
• EGG SHELLS  – Wash them first, then crush. Work the shell pieces into the soil near tomatoes and peppers. The calcium helps fend off blossom end rot. Eggshells are 93% calcium carbonate, the same ingredient as lime, a tried and true soil amendment! I use eggshells in my homemade potting mix. This gives me healthy, beautiful fruits fit for seed saving. Get the 7 Secrets to Saving Tomato Seed in the Home Garden.
• SEAWEED – Fresh seaweed should be washed well before use to remove salt. Asian markets sell dried seaweed. Both fresh and dried versions are considered excellent soil amendments. Seaweed contains trace elements and actually serves as a food source for soil microbes. Chop up a small bucket of seaweed and add it to 5 gallons of water.  Let it sit for 2-3 weeks loosely covered. Use it to drench the soil and foliage. 2 cups work well for a small plant, 4 cups for a medium plants and 6 cups for a large plant. Experiment with amounts. Combine seaweed with other tea fertilizers.  
• WEEDS  – You’ve got your own fertilizer growing under your feet!  Nettles, comfrey, yellow dock, burdock, horsetail and chickweed make wonderful homemade fertilizer. There are several ways you can use them to make your own brew or to speed up your compost pile. If your weeds have not gone to flower you can dry them in the sun and chop them up to use as a mulch. They are high in nitrogen and won’t rob your plants of nutrients. Borage (starflower) is an herb but for some people it’s a weed. It has many of the same nutritional properties as comfrey. I dry the entire plant, root and all, and put it in my compost tumbler. It helps break everything down and gives the pile and extra dose of heat. For this next brew, get out the bucket and your bandana! The bandana you’ll need for your nose because this technique gets stinky! Place a bunch of weed leaves and roots in a 5 gallon bucket. Weigh down the leaves with a brick to ensure the plant matter is covered and add water to cover. Stir weekly and wait 3-5 weeks for the contents to get thick an gooey. Then use that goo, diluted 1:10 or more as a soil drench fertilizer. To make it even more convenient, you can use two buckets and make a hole in the bottom of the bucket that contains the plants. The goo will seep through to the lower bucket.  It’s always best to apply the liquid fertilizer diluted – it should look like weak tea.
• MOLASSES – Using molasses in compost tea increases microbes and the beneficial bacteria that microbes feed on. If you want to start out with a simple recipe for molasses fertilizer, mix 1-3 tablespoons of molasses into a gallon of water. Water your plants with this concoction and watch them grow bigger and healthier.
• HUMAN URINE – Sounds disgusting, but urine is considered sterile if the body it’s coming from is healthy and free of viruses and infection. High in nitrogen, urea contains more phosphorous and potassium than many of the fertilizers we buy at the store! If serving tomatoes that have been fertilized with pee gives you the “willies”, try it in the compost pile. A good ratio of urine to water would be 1:4. You can collect a cup of urine and pour it into 4 cups of water in a plastic bucket used outside for fertilizing plants. Pour 2 cups around the perimeter of each SMALL plant. For MEDIUM plants add 4 cups and LARGE plants deserve a good 6 cups of your personal home brew.
• GRASS CLIPPINGS – Rich in nitrogen, grass breaks down over time and enhances the soil. Fill a 5 gallon bucket full of grass clippings. You can even add weeds! Weeds soak up nutrients from the soil just as much as grass. Add water to the top of the bucket and let sit, covered for 3 weeks. Stir it once a week. Dilute your grass tea by mixing 1 cup of liquid grass into 10 cups of water. Apply to the base of plants using the same amounts as listed above in the urine recipe.
• MANURE – Chicken, horse, cow manure. With a little effort, you’ll find folks that are giving away composted animal manure for free. Add the composted manure to a small permeable bag made from recycled cloth, e.g., a t-shirt or old towel. Let it steep in the shade for a few days and apply it to your soil to condition it before planting. Bury or discard the used bag. Some people use manure tea to soak bare root roses!  Click here to read my 5 tips for using manure.
  
• CAT AND DOG FOOD – Depending on the dog food you recycle, this soil amendment may not be organic.  However, even the cheap stuff contains protein and micro-nutrients that benefit the soil. To prepare a garden plot for planting, sprinkle dry pet food on the bed, turn the soil and water. Let it decay naturally. To discourage wildlife from visiting for a snack, cover with cardboard until the food decomposes. The cardboard will also trap moisture and discourage weeds. Make sure the cardboard get wet all the way through and cover with mulch. Water thoroughly every week for four weeks. Soybean meal and alfalfa pellets from the grain store work great too. Sometimes grain stores will sell for cheap or give away spoiled grains. Check the feed for salt content and try not to add pet or animal food considered high in sodium. The AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) recommends dry dog food contain a minimum of 3% sodium to support normal growth and development.

OTHERS

CORNMEAL – Contains lots of phosphorus and nitrogen and acts as an effective fungicide. Add a cup of cornmeal to 5 gallons of water. Let it soak for several hours, then strain the liquid so you can add it to a spray bottle. Spray the leaves of plants that are susceptible to fungus. You can combine this cornmeal tea with compost tea for even more benefits. I use the leftover water from cooking corn on my vegetable garden.

WORM POO – Making my own worm tea is easy. I started with a handful of red wiggler worms about 6 years ago and haven’t stopped since. Check out our video below on composting with worms to see how easy it is to make this amazing fertilizer!

For Original Article Visit: http://www.homegrownfun.com/

4 Simple Steps to Grow a Hundred Pounds of Potatoes in a Barrel

by Timothy Hurst

Container gardening isn't only for savvy urban gardeners and folks with limited space to grow, it can also be for folks who want to maximize their yields in a controlled environment. Not only does growing potatoes in a barrel reduce the amount of weeding and exposure to pests and fungi, you don't even have to risk shovel-damage to the tender potatoes by digging them out of the ground when they're done, just tip the container over!

After extensive research to plan my own potatoes-in-a-barrel, I've boiled all of the recommendations down to 4 simple steps to a winning potato harvest.

1. Select and prepare a container

You'll need to pick out a container such as a 50-gallon trash barrel or one of those half whiskey barrel planters. Alternatively, you can buy used food-grade barrels or commercially-available potato planters. Just about any 2 to 3-foot tall container will work, but be sure to select a container that either already has holes in it, or is okay to cut holes in. Next you'll want to clean your container with a mild bleach solution to get out any of the nasties that have been lingering in there. If you don't want to use bleach, you can make a bleach alternative to use instead.

Good drainage is critical for the cultivation of healthy potatoes so you'll want to cut or drill a series of large drainage holes in the bottom and bottom sides of your container. Alternatively, you can cut out the bottom altogether and place it on a well-drained surface like your garden bed.

2. Choose a variety and plant potatoes

Seed potatoes can usually be found at nurseries early in the growing season, but you should only have to buy them once. If you can, “chit” or sprout your potatoes before planting them by setting them out in an egg carton, the side with the most buds facing up, and putting them in a cool light room out of direct sunlight to sprout. Putting the tubers in an open paper bag can have this same effect.

Fill in the bottom of your container with about 6 inches of loose planting mix and compost. You'll want to use a planting mix with a peat moss-like soil amendment like this product made from repurposed coconut husks, doing so will keep the soil from becoming too compacted and help it to store moisture for the roots. Next, add some seed potatoes on the layer of soil, making certain to leave plenty of space between each cube. You can use the whole potato but I like to cut the potatoes into 1 to 2-inch cubes for planting. Loosely backfill the potatoes with another 6 inches of your soil and compost mix and water to dampen soil. Keep the soil damp at all times but be careful not to overwater.

3. Add more soil

When they have about 6 to 8 inches of foliage, add another layer of your soil-compost mix covering about one-half to three-quarters of the visible stems and foliage. Repeat this process of allowing the sprouts to grow and then covering the sprouts and moistening the soil as the plants grow up toward the top of the barrel.

4. Harvest the potatoes

After about 10 weeks or until the plants flower and start to yellow, the potatoes should be ready to harvest. Carefully dig down with your hands to inspect the top-most layer. After you've confirmed your suspicions, dump the barrel out on a tarp and inspect your bounty.

Other tips to grow bushels of barrel potatoes

• After the first harvest, keep a few potatoes to use as seed potatoes next year.
• Bush beans are a great companion plant for potatoes.
• Instead of using soil, try growing potatoes in sawdust.
• Experiment with different containers, seed potatoes and watering regimes.
• If the above steps aren't sufficient, do some more research.

Have any photos or useful tips for growing potatoes in a barrel? Please share!

Source:

How to attract wildlife to your Garden

Created by Spalding Bulb

Rain gardener’s best friend or a serious enemy

By Zahra Nasir

Rain can be the gardener’s friend but also, when it is extreme, a serious enemy; therefore, with the monsoons in the offing it is prudent to start off this busy month by organising to provide your plants with the protection they may very well need.

Image Source: darkosikman.deviantart.com

Keep an eye on the weather forecast and, at the first sign of monsoon showers, move plants which are particularly susceptible to damage — carnations and chrysanthemums, plus, trays of seedlings, being prime examples — into a protected area such as a veranda. With large pots, get someone to help you to, carefully as you don’t want to break either plants or pots, lay them on their side to prevent water logging and once the shower has moved on and as long as there isn’t another one immediately in the offing, stand them back up again. Try not to leave them lying down for any length of time as this can distort growth.

Another way of protecting delicate plants from heavy rain is to erect plastic sheeting — this must be very strong otherwise it may break — over precious flower beds. The sheeting should be stretched to its full size, as tightly as you possibly can, and securely fastened to suitable supports made of metal or strong wood. It could very well be that the plastic will fill up with rain and sag in the middle so please make allowances for this by ensuring that it is a good few inches above the plants to be protected. An even better idea would be to erect it at an angle with the lowest corner leading into some kind of sizeable container in which rain water can be saved and used in the garden when and as required. Heavy falls of rain can also be ‘broken’ by the use of fine meshed, very strong, green netting but if the rainfall is excessive, the ground beneath and any plant pots in the vicinity can be quite literally drowned.

This month — preferably in the second half — you can make a start on sowing seeds of lots of gorgeous flowers to brighten up autumn and then winter days when temperatures are, compared to right now, very pleasant indeed!

Using a good quality, free-draining, preferably organic compost, sow the following in either seed trays or clay pots and please remember to space the seeds out as overcrowding, especially in humid conditions, will cause tender seedlings to rot. Hollyhocks of all varieties although dwarf ones are better for small gardens and pots than those which can reach a towering six feet height and sometimes even more. Gerberas, cineraria, salvias, scabosia, calendulas and lots and lots of those beautiful dahlias of which there are countless colours and varieties, with both single and double flowers. If you are sowing dahlia seed that you have collected yourself, then be prepared for some stunning surprises as these will not come true to the parent plant but will have characters all of their very own.

It is best to hang on to new dahlia tubers until after the rains have ceased if, that is, the tubers are destined to be planted directly in the ground; once the rains are over you can plant them directly where they are to grow and leave the tubers in place all year round providing that drainage is absolutely first class. If you are starting dahlia tubers off in pots then, providing the pots are protected from the rain, these can go in now. New dahlias grown from cuttings taken before the plants died back after their last flowering session should not be planted out until after the monsoon ends as these are quite delicate.

Problems with ants taking up residence in plant pots tend to escalate at this time of the year, possibly because conditions in the pots are dryer, therefore safer, than in the ground and while the ants themselves do not harm your plants at all, their tunnels and nests can adversely affect the roots of the plants thus resulting in unfortunate plant death. Keeping ants out of the garden, especially if these are the dreaded white ants, is an extremely difficult task but there are certain ways of, if not stopping them completely, of making them think twice before moving in.

Standing plant pots in saucers or trays of water is one way of preventing ants from moving into pots but there are drawbacks with this method. The soil in the pots cannot drain and it will also suck up far more water than many plant species can tolerate and killing off your plants this way is certainly not the idea. Also, it can be physically impossible to stand all of your plant pots in water, especially if they happen to be very large ones. Ants, intelligent as they unquestionably are, do not like mint — any kind of mint — so having lots of mint around, the stronger the better, growing either directly in the ground or in pots where it can be controlled to an extent — mint is rapacious and can, if left to its own devices, completely take over a garden — should help keep your plants ant-free. However, don’t forget that ants are also a gardener’s friend as they work hard at cleaning up aphids of all kinds, along with some other nasties too, from your plants. Some people mistakenly think, on seeing ants on their plants, that it is the ants which are causing damage but this is not the case.

Source: dawn.com.pk

A night out… with plants

By Zahra Ali

It was a very pleasant night with beautiful moonlight glittering on my terrace when I decided to do all the garden jobs that had been pending for a week.

Transplanting vegetable seedlings

The seeds that I had sown earlier were ready to be transplanted. During the week, I had bought large containers and filled them with a good mixture of soil and manure for my vegetable plants. I spent some time marking the pots and transplanting the tomato and bell-pepper plants into the large pots. It had to be done quickly and correctly.

Seedlings must have moist soil  and two sets of true leaves prior to transplantation. The roots are pushed up gently by a stick while you hold the top of the plant in your hands. The roots of the seedlings should not be exposed to air for long. They are to be quickly planted in the bigger pots or the plot. Then they should be watered with a soft shower. Transplantation is done in the evening when its cool.

Getting in touch with plants

Next, I wanted to know how my plants were doing. The lime tree is producing lots of juicy limes, the orchids are blooming, the chiko has some new flowers and bright green leaves, Allamanda looks stunning even in the night, and the grafted cactus has two beautiful flowers. Flower seeds need transplantation as well, the pumpkin plants are about to bloom, Bonsai needs some attention, button roses survived trimming,  potatoes and garlic look happy too but china rose has had an aphid attack.

Appreciating the night

When I was done with a round of the garden, I sat down, looked around at the plants and thought about how much they had grown. It felt good to see the seeds that I had sown were growing, trees that I planted were fruiting, and all together the garden created a beautiful blend of shades of green and contrast of colours. Thank you, God!

I looked up in the sky and got lost in the brilliance of the moon that shone right above my terrace and the bright star that shined beside it.

Source: http://blogs.tribune.com.pk

Getting down and dirty

By Mahnoor Sherazee

When was the last time you got down and dirty, snuggled with nature and soothed your mind with a hoe, some seeds and fertile soil?

If you haven’t yet perhaps now is a now good time to get close to nature, literally. Organic farming is picking up credence and interest among the young and the old in Pakistan. In layman’s terms organic farming is simply growing plants without the support of pesticides and chemicals, like we used to 50 years ago.

Environmentalist Tofiq Pasha Mooraj explains the importance and process of this age old gardening and farming technique.

A process known as “nitrogen fixation” plays a key role in ensuring the soil is rich enough to sufficiently provide the plant all the minerals aka food it requires. The nitrogen fix can be achieved by mixing gobar khad (cow dung), poultry dropping and also a green option known as ‘jantar’ (fodder crop.)

Enriching the soil wins more than half the battle for the farmer. All the farmer must worry about next is keeping a close eye on the plant to ensure it does not get infected by removing unwanted weeds and immediately removing any damaged leaves and stems before it spreads.

Of course plants today are much more susceptible to pesticides as their strain gets potent each year round. But pumping crops with chemicals can both be hazardous to health and is not the only solution for farmers, even those who only plant in their backyards.

Wanting a purely “for fun and learning experience” for its students, Dawood Public School (DPS) in Karachi began gardening as an extracurricular activity nearly two years ago. Aiming to get the children away from their television sets and gaming consoles, gardening at DPS is not limited to planting and growing fruits and vegetables but learning about their nutritional value as well.

However, the initiative was met with a great deal of resistance on its onset. “Initially parents were very sceptical and resistant regarding the need for the activity, while some even saw it as a waste of time. So starting such a project was risky,” says gardening teacher at DPS Sadia Siddiqui. Another point of contention was the one-time cost of the pot. “While the school provided the soil and seeds each child needed to buy their own pot, which costs approximately Rs25,” she explains.

Some students also joined the resistance and were unwilling to “touch the soil and get their hands dirty.” There was a lot of yuck and bluck, she sighed.

But according to Siddiqui, the one-time cost of the pot and the students dislike for soil was overcome and this year the teacher is ripe with stories of how her students have started planting at home. “Many children have also made this a regular feature with their grandparents,” she says, brimming with excitement.

A student of Grade VIII Areeba Tariq says she feels “extremely close to nature while gardening.” With a small garden at home now Areeba says the activity gives her peace while relaxing her mind from the “stresses of being a 14-year-old,” she says dramatically. In her garden at home, which she jointly looks after with her siblings and cousins, Areeba has planted ferns, roses, tomatoes and chillies. She talks of her achievements proudly, not forgetting to mention how she commands her siblings on how to properly garden since her school is the only one with the subject.

Gardening classes at DPS are divided into two groups. The primary group is from Grade I to V and the secondary group from Grade VI to VIII. Each group gardens two weeks out of the month alternating with two weeks in the food and nutrition laboratory.

As this is 13-year-old Sama Fatima’s last year of gardening as an activity in school she promises to keep her efforts up with her “mini farm” at home. “I really did not care much for gardening before but over time I developed a very keen interest in it,” she says. Now Sama can only hold back for so long before she needs to have her fingers running through the soil and plants her next batch of fruits, flowers and vegetables. “Before, my father would ask me why I spent so much time gardening and said perhaps I could better utilise my energy elsewhere. Now when he sees the calming and responsible effect it has had on me he started encouraging it. So far I have planted tomatoes, roses, sunflowers, custard apple and mangoes,” she proudly says.

Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, March 27^th, 2011.

HOW TO GROW PUDINA AT HOME

Would love to share the pudina aka mint leaves from my kitchen garden.Pudina leaves are very refreshing  & used for chutneys or various summer coolers to biryanis.Mint, a very common herb, is known to people since years. Mint in biological terms is known as 'Mentha' and in common language is known as 'Pudina'. Mint is frequently used by everyone as a mouth and a breath freshener. We all are aware of the refreshing part of mint, but it offers lot of health benefits too. After plucking mint leaves, I sowed the mint stems which were strong. It took almost 1 week to get new fresh leaves.

Ingredients
a bunch of fresh pudina /mint /pudhina leaves
a pot & soil (red mud)

Method
1.Take a pot / kundi (plastic one is also ok).Make  small 2-3 holes in the bottom of the pot for draining excess water.
2.Fill pot with planting soil upto three fourth of the capacity.
3.Make  holes in the soil at the top.
4.Take  of Pudina/ Mint stems  whichare strong & sow them  into the soil. Keep 3-4 leaves at the top for it to survive while it grows new roots on planting. 

5.Sprinkle water to moisten the soil. Do this every day.
6.Ensure enough sunlight, but not direct. You can keep it under a larger plant for some shade.
7.It takes  almost 1 week to get new fresh leave,by the end of the month you will find more sprigs have come up and your pot is  green. 

Benefits of Mint  :

•Helps Digestion and Cures Stomach Upset Mint is a powerful antioxidant and it helps in the digestion of food. Antioxidants are capable of terminating the reactions by eliminating free radical intermediates. It helps the digestive system to fasten the process of digestion. Mint galvanizes the enzymes which are associated with digestion.
Mint is a very good appetizer and hence people prefer to have mint after eating their food. It is used on a large scale in cooking as well. People prefer to have medicines containing pudina or mint, when they have an upset stomach. While traveling many people recommend and prefer to keep a mint with them so as to avoid vomiting and sickness.
•Prevents Headaches  
The strong and refreshing smell of mint acts as a quick remedy in reducing the headaches. There are lots of ayurvedic and herbal medicines that are manufactured using mint to prevent various disorders. People keep mint products and balms made up of mint to prevent headaches. They apply balm on their forehead and their neck to get a quick relief.
•Helps in Prevention of Cancer Research shows that mint is helpful in keeping body protected from various types of cancers. It is said that the enzymes which are present in mint helps in prevention of cancer. The cancers which can be prevented by adding mint in your diet is - skin cancer and lung cancer.
•Helps in Skin Care and Prevents Pimples Mint juice is an excellent antiseptic and is a good skin cleanser. It is known for curing many infections and soothing the skin. Mint is used in many cosmetic products like cleanser, face wash, lip sticks and scrubs. Many people crush the pudina leaves and then apply the juice on their face to avoid pimples.
•Helps in Prevention of Asthma and Cough The strong aroma of mint helps in prevention of Asthma and cough. Using mint in the daily diet is advantageous for asthma patients, as it is a good reliever. Mint also helps in the cooling and soothing of throat, which helps in the break down of cough. Thus, mint is used in inhalers and medicines.  

 

Pesticides and Vegetable Disease Control

Fungicides can be a great help in preventing diseases when properly applied to the plant foliage. Since fungicides are preventive, they should be applied before the disease occurs, or as soon as the first symptoms of disease appear.

Some vegetable diseases require specific fungicides for their control. An outline of diseases of specific vegetables, disease description, suggested cultural and chemical control and comments follows this section.

Fungicides are available primarily as wet-table powders, dry flowables and dusts, but a few are sold as emulsifiable concentrates, flowables and liquids. Wettable powders (WP) and dry flowable (DF) are formulated in such a manner as to be readily suspendable in water. Dusts (D) should not be mixed in water, but applied directly to the plant. Emulsifiable concentrate (EC) fungicides contain an emulsifying agent that makes them readily suspendable in water. Flowable (F) fungicides are finely ground wettable powders that are suspended in a liquid.

Some soil fungicides are available as granules and are applied in the furrow at planting. Dust and spray fungicides may also be used as in furrow treatments for seedling disease control.

Never attempt to use dust formulations of fungicides in spray solutions. Dusts will not suspend in the spray solution. Wettable powder formulations may appear similar to dusts, but they are formulated to be suspended in spray solutions. Foliar sprays will aid in controlling leaf spots, rusts, mildews, anthracnose and fruit rots. Foliar sprays are not effective against vascular wilts or root rots. Foliar sprays are protectants, because they form a protective layer of fungicide over the surface of the fruit and foliage. Disease agents (bacteria and fungi) that land on these fungicide-coated surfaces are killed or prevented from infecting the plant.

Most fungicides are not effective in inhibiting disease organisms once they have infected a plant. It is imperative that foliar fungicides be applied prior to infection of the plant. A spray schedule should be followed that maintains a protective fungicide layer on the foliage and fruit during favorable infection periods. By carefully monitoring their vegetables, some gardeners can usually delay the first fungicide application until the first sign of disease. Then a 7-14 day spray schedule should be followed. During rainy or humid weather, spray application intervals should be shortened.

Proper pesticide mixing and spraying plays a very important part in achieving disease control. Most home gardeners will find a 1-2 gallon compressed-air sprayer adequate for applying foliar sprays. A nozzle with a cone pattern will provide the most effective coverage of plant foliage. Keep the pressure up to insure small spray particle size and good coverage.

Sprayers should be cleaned and rinsed after each use. Hose-end sprayers are not very effective in applying fungicides to vegetables. Never use the same sprayer for fungicides and insecticides that has been used for herbicides. Residues of certain types of herbicides are very difficult to remove from sprayers. These residues may cause crop injury if a herbicide-contaminated sprayer is used in applying fungicides or insecticides.